Entering its 44th year, Zambesi has cemented itself in Aotearoa's sartorial landscape as a heritage brand that commands not only respect, but individuality: a concept that is becoming increasingly scarce in today's social media-driven, fast-fashion world.
While TikTok's legion of tastemakers set trends for the masses, Zambesi urges its wearers to dress for themselves: to style its pieces in ways that make them look and feel their best.
It's this ethos that underpins the Zambesi brand: high-quality, effortlessly chic garments that are designed to be worn in any number of iterations. An impeccably crafted grey blazer, for example, can be cinched in with a metallic silver belt to nod to current trends, or can be worn alone as a timeless, staple piece that makes a statement all on its own.
"We've always encouraged people to make it all about them - it's about dressing for each individual," designer and co-founder Liz Findlay said backstage ahead of Zambesi's S24 showcase at New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria.
"I don't want it to be obviously about the brand. We respect individuality and so that's why we like every model to look like themselves. We've always encouraged people to style themselves and feel good. You want them to come back because they feel good in what they're wearing - that's how you build trust and loyalty."
Findlay, who co-founded the fashion house in 1979 with her husband Neville, is proudly wearing Zambesi in the form of a black oversized blazer, teamed with an ankle-length black skirt, black sneakers, a black crew neck and a black leather crossbody.
"This is a summer collection that we're really excited about, sometimes there'll be a crazy colour that might appeal to me - but as you know, I love black," she laughed.
"I love black because I never tire of it. It's got a lot of layers: it's not just black. I always feel good in it."
Indeed, the S24 collection did feature black, and lots of it, alongside a few welcome splashes of colour: including a certain hue that has become synonymous with 2023. Barbie pink has been the 'it' shade of 2023, powered primarily by Greta Gerwig's blockbuster hit - and despite Zambesi's aversion to fashion fads, even they weren't spared by the Barbie blitz. Although, of course, by coincidence: Findlay - reiterating she wasn't even aware of the Barbie pink phenomenon - says she had the fabric months ago.
"In this collection we've got a really beautiful pink - and no, it's not about the Barbie thing. We bought that fabric months and months ago," she laughed.
"I think we're aware of trends - but it's normally highlighted by a magazine, or someone who's 'looking' for trends. We've always ignored it, because we're not about trends. We're about timeless, enduring style... I think it's challenging to do something simple that still has that edge, doing something classic in an unexpected way."
A fashion designer who ignores trends almost sounds like an oxymoron, or the kind of line said by the lofty indie up-and-comer who is simply 'too cool' to be aware of what's going on in the mainstream. But from Findlay, it's clearly authentic: when asked if there were any current styles she was particularly fond of, she simply responded: "I wouldn't know."
Taking familiar silhouettes, shapes and styles and bringing them up-to-date for the new generation of consumers also feeds into Zambesi's commitment to sustainable fashion. Nothing is for the 'now', made to be worn for a season and then discarded. The pieces are designed for longevity, staples that stand the test of time: collections past can be easily brought into the present with the right additions.
It's about paying respect to the past, while looking to the future, Findlay added.
"We've got customers that come to us and say, 'I've had one of your pieces for 20 years, can you make me another one?' We do that all the time. They've loved that old piece, and they'll be wearing it with something new," she went on.
"We've always been incredibly resourceful. We don't throw things away. We have an archive - that's part of always respecting the past and looking to the future. The beauty of our collections is that people don't want to throw them away. It's not throw-away fashion, it's pieces that you keep - it's an investment."
People have an emotional connection to the clothes, Findlay noted, a bond that has been fostered over years and years of wear and memories. Pieces become treasured heirlooms, gifted from one family member to another, who will rewear, reuse or repurpose it as they see fit. It's a type of circularity that is becoming more and more popular with the rise of thrifting, consignment stores, and even second-hand personal shoppers.
"There's favourite things you could never throw away: they might not fit you anymore but you can't be apart from it because of the fabric, the colour - or you pass it to someone you love and you know it'll be taken care of."
Reducing its environmental impact has been a key goal of New Zealand Fashion Week this year, with a sharpened focus on Te Ao Māori and a sustainable circular model being its primary objectives. Earlier in August, it was announced that Fashion Week will be adopting a Sustainability Strategy to develop a roadmap towards a more responsible and mindful event in the coming years.
To support its ambitions, this year organisers are encouraging all uniforms to be reused, while all props and lanyards are to be reused, recycled, or repurposed. Where possible, passes have been digital, with attendees also receiving a digital goodie bag of curated discounts. Meanwhile, the event is taking place at the Viaduct Events Centre, a 5-Star Green Rated venue situated along Auckland's picturesque waterfront.
So what about Zambesi S24? The collection itself debuted at the neighbouring Park Hyatt on Thursday afternoon, set against the backdrop of the Viaduct Basin and city skyline. Strong, structured silhouettes were juxtaposed by fluid silks and sheer accents, showcasing Findlay's love of unlikely combinations and contrast. Pops of silver metallic shone against tailored black ensembles, while sheer socks with strappy shoes and artful layering added intrigue - think boxy blazers over dainty bralettes. Neutral tones were offset by pops of vibrant Barbie pink and shades of mint and sage green. Fabrics, which Findlay hails as her ultimate muse, range from silks to cottons and wool blends.
Her summer staple? A versatile tunic, or a classic Zambesi oversized tee.
"It's nice and baggy, you can wear it with pants, shorts, or over a dress. My go-to's are always a jacket, I love jackets, and vests, and I'm more of a pants girl. I wear more of our staples - the backbone of the collection is always in my wardrobe."
Timeless and enduring style, indeed.
